THE CELIAC HUSBAND (NOW IN FRANCE)

NIORT

2012-01-31T11:27:00.001-07:00

The sales are on in France. Second markdown already. See, it`s a bit more structured,or should I say restricted here in France. Sales do not happen every Saturday. Just twice a year. And then every one goes shopping.

Winners stresses me out, so for sure Victoria was on her own. But she would not go to Niort by herself, I had to drive.

I took the opportunity to explore this city in the south of the Deux Sevres department a bit beyond the shops.

While the peripherie is ringed with power centers a la America, the historic part of Niort is what`s exciting to see. A famous Dungeon, churches, great architecture and quite simply the heart and soul of an old town. When you look at old buildings that are a bit rundown, you can`t help but wonder about it`s century old stories, what happened, who lived there, what business was on the ground floor 150 years ago.

Dominating the view from almost every angle is the church of Saint Andre, elevated above the town.

Having seen my fair share of churches (it`s part of life in Austria), this one was a very nice surprise. The stained glass windows, old frescoes, oil paintings, wood carved monuments, all of them a testament to the talent employed by our pals in the catholic church.

The covered market hall, right next to the famous dungeon, a generous pedestrian zone which begins/ends at Place de la Breche. Which is undergoing some massive renovation and the end result this summer is nothing short of world class. All parking has been moved underground, the square will be greened with 350 trees, dozens of inviting Cafes and Bistros.

Niort is well worth a visit if you come down to the area.

NIORT WITH 11TH CENTURY CHURCH OF ST. ANDRE

DESTROYED AND REBUILT IN THE 16TH CENTURY

STUNNING STAINED GLASS WINDOWS

AND MODERN

FRESCOES

GILT SIDE ALTAR

(NEO) GOTHIC

COVERED MARKET

WOULD MAKE A NICE FOUNTAIN IN YOUR YARD

CAFES ALONG PLACE DE LA BRÉCHE

COVERED SHOPPING ARCADES

FINE ZONES PIETONNES

ARCHITECTURE

IF YOU LIKE A PLACE IN WINTER, YOU`LL LOVE IT IN SUMMER

NOT THE BUSINESS IT USED TO BE

NOT SURE WHAT, BUT COOL GRAFFITI NEVER THE LESS.

AN ACTUAL ENTRANCE TO A HOME

H0TEL DE VILLE

THE DUNGEON

GLUTEN FREE WRAPS

2012-01-30T11:07:00.002-07:00

Well, in case you wonder what Victoria does all day. She experiments. A lot. Almost every day. Tinkering around with one recipe until it meets her standards? It may take weeks. I eat a lot. It's all good in my eyes, but Victoria won't even let me Blog about it unless it's fit for you. I just keep eating the trial items. They are GREAT!

Not uncommon, that in the middle of the night Victoria switches on her bedside lamp and goes back downstairs for 30 minutes or more. Why? She thought of something, a detail, and wants to write it down properly before it gets lost in her mind by the morning. Isabella calls it Baker's OCD.

Our rental is great. Cozy, with great people around, but the kitchen is just not equipped enough, nor does Victoria have the space to spread out her wares. Hence the urgency to get a kitchen soon. Her licensees need new products. So they can keep humming with great gluten free products.

One of the recent trials involved a perfect gluten free wrap. In my eyes they are ready for production. Victoria does not think so.

It's still this, it's still that. She needs to get out more and eat what is available.....

I don't mind. I just keep eating Burritos. Lots of them. They are good. Gluten free good. Coming soon to a bakery near you.

PERFECTLY THIN, THEY HOLD A LOT

THEY DON'T LEAK

THEY ROLL NICELY

THEY DON'T BREAK APART

FRANCE FOOD SAFETY, QUITE RELAXED

FISH & CHIPS

2012-01-29T02:08:00.000-07:00

Though 90% of my food consumption is gluten free, once in a while I do venture out and get myself a baguette with Rillette or Jambon. I am in France.....

And thanks to a very strong presence of British expats, we even have a Chip truck in the area. I did make them gluten free in Calgary, but in this rental Gite, I do not have the right equipment to deep fry some GF beer battered Cod. Or make home made fries for that matter. I'd set the place on fire.

The truck comes around Loulay every other Saturday, so we ventured over there to try it out last night. Hoping that maybe the fries would be made separately and the whole family can eat something. But no such luck, Victoria stuck with wine.

The local restaurant struck a deal with the truck owner, where you can actually eat your order on proper plates with cutlery, for one Euro. A nice combo really. Sit down and enjoy a good deep fried meal. Both fish and the fries are made fresh, some sides such as mushy peas are available as well. A very good meal, not for Celiacs.

The truck does a weekly tour of villages and towns in the area, after all there are 30000 + expats in the Charentes.

It did seem a bit of a social gathering as much as ordering a fry, there was quite a nice gathering of Brits that evening. George, our neighbor was there too, a familiar face in the crowd.

http://www.frying2nite.com/

A CHIP TRUCK IN FRANCE

MENU

GEORGE, OUR NEIGHBOR IN VILLENOUVELLE

GLUTEN FREE VERSION

http://theceliachusband.blogspot.com/2009/10/gluten-free-fish-chips.html

GROCERY SHOPPING IN FRANCE

2012-01-25T04:59:00.003-07:00

Besides going to the market for our fresh foods, we do frequent a supermarket close to the village for daily things. And items you can't get at the market.

Intermarché, a chain across France, is our go to place. No preference, just convenience. There are some major differences between shopping at say, Superstore, or here at this supermarket. Not going into pricing, just obvious things such as the giant selection of UHT milk, which we really do not like, versus the three milks you can choose from fresh.... French love their milk sterilized. Very sterilized. With this Ultra heat treatment milk achieves a shelf life of up to 9 month.

If there would be a war, or nuclear accident in the area, I`d agree with loving it.

But heck, it just tastes not good. Try making a Cappuccino with that kind of milk. NOT GOOD.

Wine would be another HUGE difference to Canada. You`ll get it anywhere really. In this medium sized market, 3 aisles were dedicated to wine and spirits.

Yesterday in Bordeaux, we visited an independent bookstore similar to Chapters, guess what? A huge wine selection smack in the middle of the books and CDs. Sort of makes sense, since it is a wine producing country. maybe french drink wine while they read John Grisham. I don't know.

Yogurts. Massive choices. All fresh. Not UHT. Which makes it a good product. We eat much more Yogurt here, than we did in Calgary.

Deli section. Pizza no, Roasted chicken yes. A few annoying things about buying cold cuts here, they won`t slice it thin even if you beg them and some real strange habit of theirs? They don't take off the skin. Now, who would want to eat a 1/4 inch thick Mortadella sandwich with skin on??? Peculiar.

On the very positive, staff is usually very competent and friendly. Ingredients check never a problem. I think they enjoy it actually to investigate what is in the products. Nobody else seems to ask is my impression. they always have to go and find a huge binder with all the labels in there.

Same goes for the cheese counter. You'll not only find a selection similar to that of wine, there is always a vendor who loves to tell you about their favorite choice. and which to avoid, for whatever reason.

I bought fish again today and the fishmonger made me stay away from the Vietnam fish, because who knows what's in and what they did to that fish over there. Buy this one she said, it's similar in quality and taste and caught in Normandy. Never mind that it is double the price. Gotta love that patriotism.

Right at the entrance or exit, depends when you buy bread, is the in house bakery. I buy the occasional Pain au Chocolat, but cannot speak to the bread. I am eating Victoria's.

Bread is sold by kg pricing and bakers are a protected trade. meaning, not everyone can snow into town and open a bakery. except Intermarché it seems.

SIMILAR TO SUPERSTORE

IN HOUSE BAKERY

CLEARLY MARKED BREAD PRICES

UHT MILK SECTION

FRESH MILK SECTION

PLENTY OF FISH

BIG AND SMALL

SAUCISSON SEC

PATES, TERRINES

RILLETTES

WINE EVERYWHERE

ALWAYS A SALE FOR WINE

ETHNIC FOOD?

YOGURT SELECTION

GRAND SELECTION OF SPARKLING AND STILL WATER

ROASTED RED BEET SALAD

2012-01-22T01:57:00.003-07:00

Over the last few weeks I have watched a stand at the Farmers' market, that sells roasted beets. Betteraves Cuit.

They look shriveled up to say the least, burnt almost. Why do people stay in line to buy them?

Save the hassle of cooking them? Less messy?

I think it is the flavor. We finally bought one yesterday, peeled it (less messy), chopped it up, sprinkled some Balsamico and sea salt on it, FLAVOR. Smokey roasted flavor. Rich in Vitamin A and C, full of antioxidants. Maybe I should eat them more often?

Do you have a favorite way to eat them?

TASTY, HEALTHY, COLORFUL

FARMER AT THE MARKET

THEY TASTE BETTER THAN THEY LOOK

DEEP RED

CHOPPED UP

GLUTEN FREE GNUDI RECIPE

2012-01-19T08:42:00.001-07:00

In Sage butter no less.

Gnudi is the cousin of Gnocchi. The somewhat refined cousin. Even fluffier than Nona's potato dumpling from Tuscany.

Made with Ricotta, they make for the perfect appetizer, or main course if you will.

Here is Victoria's most successful version of them:

3 Eggs

425 gr Ricotta (Please no low fat....)

3/4 Cup of GF PATISSERIE flour, plus 3/4 tsp Xanthan (substitute at your own risk)

1tsp Salt

1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese

In a bowl whisk eggs until blended. Add Ricotta and whisk into the eggs.

Add flour, Xanthan, salt and cheese. Whisk some more until the dough is blended.

Let rest in fridge for 20 minutes, then with a couple of teaspoons form Gnudi and drop into hot, simmering water.

Once they start floating, let them simmer for another minute. Skim the Gnudi into browned sage butter, toss gently and serve. Family will be happy.

I am just glad that I don't have to write a cookbook. That's a tedious job. Especially with Victoria as an over the shoulder editor.

COTES DE PROVENCE ROSE, PERFECT WINE WITH GNUDI

RICOTTA

LET THE DOUGH REST IN THE FRIDGE FOR 20 MINUTES

FORM THE GNUDIS WITH A COUPLE OF TEA SPOONS IN CIRCULAR MOTION

SIMMER UNTIL THEY FLOAT

THEN SIMMER FOR ABOUT ANOTHER MINUTE

BROWN SOME GOOD BUTTER AND SAGE LEAFS

GENTLY TOSS THEM AROUND

SERVE WITH SHAVED PARMESAN & SALT, CRACKED PEPPER,

HOUSE HUNTING IN FRANCE

2012-01-16T06:47:00.001-07:00

January 16th, 2012. We arrived here, the Charente Maritime, almost 3 month ago. Spend the winter in warmer climates, away from the headache inducing Chinook arches of southern Alberta. Eat some cheese. Improve on a second language. Relax.

Maybe, if we like it, look at houses and stay longer. Much longer. 80 days in, we are coming close to decision time. Should we stay or should we go now....

We looked at some 40 houses since we got here. Pretty much everything from barns to Chateau like B&Bs, Gites, country homes, townhouses, land to build on, wrecks, renovated coups de coeurs, divorce deals, a farm for horses, you name it, we've looked at it. It is a great way to learn more about an area or culture as well it is fun to be a real estate tourist.

No matter how much time you spend on the net looking a pretty pictures, nothing can prepare you for the reality of it all.. With harsh lighting in the winter month. The list of priorities you are writing? Forget it. Out the window after the first property. It all changes on location.

The game is played different over here for sure.

Over 50% of all real estate transactions in France are done so privately and without lawyers. Just with a mutually chosen notary public. Realtors do not show homes other than their own listings. Which makes for fun situations when a house next door is for sale as well and the guy says, sorry cannot show it, no keys, not my listing, don't know the other realtor ( in a village of 200 folks...), etc., etc.

It also seems that quite a few of them are salaried, versus working for commission, as more than one rep clearly told us they would not be showing houses on the weekend. They are not working those days. Call again Monday. Call backs? Why? if you want a house, you call them anyway. No need to chase the clients.

Comparables? Nope, not available. It's not as if a builder slapped together a subdivision with 200 cookie cutter homes 150 years ago. Here, 98% of the buildings are so dissimilar, the only thing they have in common is the area they are in.

Pricing? All over the map. Side by side, similar age, style, size, the price can differ by such large amounts, you are just left scratching your head. Especially after the realtor who showed you one of them, just shrugs shoulders and tells you "C'est comme ca en France."

We looked at houses that were on the market for 2 or more years, total wrecks, inside and out. Lower the price? Why? One day it will sell.

If only I would know how to write a book. There's a bestseller here, people. And movie rights for a comedy with at least two sequels...

"Is there lead paint in this house?" "Yes, of course Monsieur, but it is not dangerous unless you nibble at it."

The Brits, as dominant expat community in this area, have driven up prices over the last 7 or 8 years. So enamored are they with restoring Farms and their barnish outbuildings, make them all frilly and lacy, ready to rent to their less fortunate countrymen for a week during holiday season and make a living at it.

Ehm. Well, what shall I tell you. We looked at a few choice properties for sale that were already converted into Gites.

But honestly, just because some family from Aberystwyth, Wales paid 1000.00 Euros a week last summer to stay in your Flea market furnished barn, does not mean I am prepared to pay 550,000.00 to own it. How much were your gross revenues last year you said? 21k? Nice. How did you come up with the value of the house? A Realtor from London told you? I see.

How's your repeat business? You are not tracking it as much? I see. I am not surprised no one's coming back for seconds....

Another challenge in the area is the mildewy smell inside many properties, especially those Gites, which stay empty for practically 8 month of the year.

When we asked once what it was, if in fact it was mildew, the classic response was that no, it's just the humidity we can smell and it would go away if we were to leave the windows open for a while.

One Gite complex that we looked at however, was an incredible gem. Well restored, plenty of space and style, add to that a classy restored main house, we really loved that one. The price though, even after going in with an aggressive offer, would have been too high for what Victoria wanted to spend on a full time job with a part time income....

Having said all that, there is good news. You can engage a house hunter, who will do all the leg work for you, according to your priorities and set parameters. Saves lots of time. But part of the fun is to look at all those properties you have seen online.

Don't feel guilty about not being loyal to one realtor. They aren't either.

Once you do find a house you like or even love, be not afraid to go in low. You are the buyer.

There are deals to be had, that is for certain. The french are more in tune with property values than Brits are. But even here, reality starts to sink in. The good days are gone for a while. Fresh money is harder to find, less impulsive buyers now.

And many of the expats seem to just want to get back to the island. We have heard about too many divorces, disillusioned couples who just could not make a go of it and want out. Just not at the price we offered.....

WHY HOUSE PRICES ARE HIGHER IN THIS REGION

TOWNHOUSE FROM 1849

PLENTY OF STAIRCASES CLIMBED

GREAT VIEWS

IT'S ALL FOR SALE

EXCELLENT STYLISH B&B

THE BEST GITE WE'VE SEEN

WHO DID THIS?

"BUT YOU COULD RENOVATE IT"

THE FIRST HOUSE WE LOOKED AT. OH BOY

POST WAR BARN. RENOVATE IT??

AN EARLY FAVORITE

BUT TOO FAR FROM THE ACTION

VISITED A FEW OF THEM

ARCHITECTURAL GEMS

FIRE ROASTED SAUSAGES

2012-01-11T04:12:00.001-07:00

At the market in St. Jean d'Angely is a butcher who sells the largest variety of homemade sausages and pates.

Since they are my favorite snack food, his stand is a weekly ritual by now and his sausages are excellent. The rest of the family is fed up with eating them, so it's just me now eating sausages.

Today they got roasted inside our stove, but I was starving and took them out too soon. They were cooked through, but have not browned enough.

No worries. They tasted as good as always. His Merguez are nice and spicy, Chipolatas are a tad sweet really, maybe due to the nutmeg. The third one with herbs is very very good as well.

With a couple of mustards, some gluten free bread, a perfect snack.

THAT'S ONLY PART OF THE SELECTION

MERGUEZ, WITH HERBS AND CHIPOLATA

MAYBE I SHOULD BY A CAST IRON PAN

SWEET & SPICY MUSTARDS

NEXT TIME, I LEAVE THEM IN LONGER

HANDS DOWN, MERGUEZ IS THE BEST

CHICKEN COPS

2012-01-08T07:45:00.000-07:00

Coincidentally, as I was preparing a nice Sunday Chicken dinner and surfing the web while the food was getting ready, an article in the Globe & Mail caught my eye, which not only explains why I think eggs, chickens, butter, cheeses and foods taste better here, but even more so it shows that any food trend of significance has to be consumer driven. Not supplier based ideas of what we should eat. Especially if they are in bed with the government for market protectionism measures....

Well, what did you think why cheese is so expensive in Canada? Price fixing at it's finest.

Trying as much as I can, not to whine or compare (after all I was not very vocal about food issues while living in North America), it is hard not to grab a soap box and say what I think. Just read the article and hope that Mr. Harper is willing to change some things along the way.

Come on, quotas are very Russian in concept, not free market stimulating at all. Yes, yes, food safety is an issue they may say, but guess what, Europe has a combined population of 300 Million as well and they are just fine with much lesser hygienic food serving standards over here.

It is, as a fact, Victoria' most exciting issue when we go to markets and see how food is handled. No bleach water bucket in sight, tongues to grab a slice of cake, after they handled your money? Nah, what for? Hands are clean (enough).

North American food inspectors would have the times of their lives over here, full of glee for all the fines they could hand out. They'd need to come up with a new scale for all the demerit points for violations they have never even dreamed of back home.

Here is the article:

http://www.theglobeandmail.com/life/food-and-wine/trends/trends-features/why-you-cant-find-heritage-poultry/article2290035/page1/

ROASTED FREE RANGE CHICKEN

ROASTED POTATOES

FRESH BUTTER LETTUCE WITH TOMATOES FROM SPAIN

GF BRIOCHE BUNS, COURTESY OF VICTORIA

YES, I DRINK RED WITH CHICKEN

REALLY GOOD APPLE JUICE FOR ISABELLA

EAT FISH

2012-01-04T10:01:00.002-07:00

Somewhere a while ago, I read that flatulating cows in Brazil contribute to the whole global warming problem we seem to have. Well, for one, I am scarred for life with this image in my head, perfectly happy cows in the Amazon farting away like grandma after her birthday dinner, and second, though there is a challenge on this planet, please stop make me feel guilty because I like a good steak. Or two.

Those upcoming sun flares in 2013 will heat us up substantially more than cows with digestive issues ever could. I digress, as usual.

To show good faith, I am eating fish today. Filets of Rouget in a cream sauce.

Dang, Wikipedia says because of those cows who release gases, the planet is warmer and those fish have to migrate further north now into cooler waters. Which means the boat has to travel further, using more Diesel to catch some, so I can eat them. To feel less guilty about my meat intake. This is becoming a no win situation fast.

Regardless, fish, if sustainable (stop eating Sushi, people), makes for an incredible dinner. Easy to prepare, tasty and healthy. Unless you use butter and cream as I did today. Which comes from the cows, who we now all know fart a lot.

ROUGET FILETS

FRY A COUPLE MINUTES IN GOOD BUTTER, ADD SALT, PEPPER

A DASH OF DRY WHITE WINE

A SQUIRT OF CREAM, THICKEN IT UP OVER HIGH HEAT

SOME MACHE SALAD ON THE SIDE......LIFE IS GOOD

MCCAFÉ! SACRE BLEU!

2011-12-30T02:44:00.001-07:00

When you are spoiled from living in a city such as Calgary, where top quality coffee is virtually available at every corner, France is somewhat of a letdown in that department. Though readily available everywhere, 99% of the Espresso drinks we ordered so far are worse than what we got used to at Java Jamboree in Cochrane, P&S, Artigiano or any of the other fantastic places back home.

Especially when you are on the road, finding a good, tasty jolt of Espresso is a hard thing.

So, much to my surprise, I am telling you, despite my preconceived notion, coupled with a coffee attitude, McCafe was a very very nice surprise.

Having heard much about their desire to give Starbucks a run for the milk money, yesterday in Orleans was the first time I ever contemplated visiting one.

Right from the very first visual impression to the last bite of a flaky, buttery Pain au Chocolat I was impressed.

Yes, the Barrista is not as well trained as those world champions at Transcend in Edmonton AND probably has to flip Burgers at lunch rush, but she was extremely friendly and provided table service with a smile. A BIG smile I 'd like to add.

The Espresso con Panna was pulled very short, probably to leave space for the whipped cream and it hit the right button with me. Excellent flavor.

The pastry selection, right down to an excellent Macaron is very very good compared to those oily muffins we get in Canada.

In terms of pricing, well, they are McDonald's, so they are in a league of their own over here. 1.20 for my Espresso.

.90 for my pastry, not too shabby.

The one major let down is that as most other french cafes, they use UHT milk which makes any milk drink a gamble of flavors. Victoria ordered a Caramel Latte, which was just not good. But other than that, I give it high notes all around

Well then. When in France, stick to Espresso.

VISUALLY VERY APPEALING

WELL DESIGNED ON A VERY SMALL FOOT PRINT

EXCELLENT PASTRY SELECTION

GUESS WHO ORDERED THE MACARON

UHT MILK MAKES FOR CRAPPY MILK DRINKS

A CIMBALI MACHINE

SLICK ADVERTISING

AT THE CREPERIE

2011-12-30T02:02:00.001-07:00

After a somewhat long drive back from Austria, our final stop before arriving at the Gite, was a small Creperie in Niort for gluten free pancakes.

Made with buckwheat flour, they are a great vehicle to deliver a variety of delicious fillings, mostly savory though. No matter where we order a Galette sucre, you get a look and comments such as, "But they are salty", never the less, even with Nutella they are a perfect gluten free treat here in France.

My order was a more inventive filling compared to the standard ones ordered by the girls. Celery puree, Apple compote and Black Pudding sausage. Excellent really. So. For all you travellers that are planning to visit France, look for Crepes made with Farina Sarrasin, or Ble noir.

DOWNTOWN NIORT

SPECIAL OF THE DAY, BLOOD SAUSAGE

DOG IS WELCOME

CELERY PUREE, APPLE COMPOTE WITH BLOOD SAUSAGE

HAM, RACLETTE CHEESE, POTATOES AND CREME FRAICHE

HAM, CHEESE AND LOADS OF MUSHROOMS

VEAL KIDNEY ROAST

2011-12-26T11:34:00.003-07:00

Not an appealing name is it? Offal is not the most common part in North American cooking, in Europe however, it's as common as T-Bone steak.

One of my favorite roasts is (mother) milk fed veal with it's kidneys tucked inside. Naturally a request for Christmas, we picked up a nice roast at the village butcher, which we then made in a Roemertopf, a clay pot which thanks to it's porous nature works somewhat similar to a steamer while roasting the meat.

As you can see in the picture, my mother's pot has some mileage which just adds to it's quality.

While the Austrian branch of my family was schmatzing away at this excellent roast, the Canadian part of my family was busy finding ways to hide the kidney they just could not stomach to eat.

No surprise really, it's not for everybody. Once Isabella found out what is on her plate, game over. She did not even finish the rice. She claimed cross contamination.

If you travel to Europe and see "Kalbsnierenbraten" on the menu, order it. You may like it.

ANATOMICAL VIEW

HOW YOU BUY IT AT THE BUTCHER

CLAY POT RETAINS MOISTURE

THE BEST

PERFECT HOLIDAY RENTAL - 540.00 EUROS/WEEK

2011-12-22T07:19:00.002-07:00

I keep forgetting to mention that the place we are staying at, is actually for rent. After my sister and myself moved out, my parents converted our apartments into holiday rentals, a popular way to gain some extra income while maintaining a large house in resort villages across Europe.

This holiday rental we are in, measures a generous 800 square foot and is set up perfectly for 4. Sometimes families of six rent it, but then it's a bit tight. Their call I say.

Well equipped kitchen (no dishwasher) with a cozy nook, bright living room and two bedrooms make this condo a perfect place to reside while skiing in the winter, or hiking in the summer. If you enjoy cross country skiing, the tracks run right by the house. In summer, you can Kayak right out the front door, the River Steyr runs by the house as well.

Hinterstoder itself is an amazingly picturesque alpine village with around a thousand friendly permanent residents.Not nearly as much action as St. Anton, Kitzbuehl or Saalbach, it is much more laid back here, with a handful of great restaurants and shops.

The skiing is world class, not that I would know first hand ( Stopped long time ago), but last year Hinterstoder hosted a couple very successful World Cup Races.

If you want full details, please email to: edlinger1(at)utanet.at or call ++43 7564 -5424

THE HOUSE

THE VIEW

THE VILLAGE

LIVING ROOM

KITCHEN NOOK

KITCHEN

BEDROOM 1

BEDROOM 2

800 SQFT

AT THE CHRISTMAS MARKET IN SALZBURG

2011-12-18T01:42:00.000-07:00

We made our trek from the Charente to Austria in record time yesterday. The hurricane in our back made us drive faster I think. We left early morning when the winds were still strong, but it was manageable I thought. No trees across the streets, no accidents and maybe thanks to the warnings on TV, traffic was very light and we arrived in Stuttgart, our overnight stop, at 8pm, a reasonable time.

Saturday morning we set out to stop in Salzburg to visit the Christmas market. Set around the cathedral, it's a fantastic setting. If that does not put you into the Christmas mood, nothing will.

Some mulled wine, roasted chestnuts, a tchotchke or two for the tree. Christmas music and the weather definitely turned towards snow that day.

Over a million people visit the market every year and I think they we all came yesterday. The Getreidegasse was packed as I have only seen it in the summer. Locals and tourists from all over the world, window shopping, having a great time.

A perfect way to start our Christmas holiday.

ISABELLA, WITH THE CASTLE IN THE BACKGROUND

GETREIDEGASSE, WHERE MOZART WAS BORN

WE SHOULD HAVE TAKEN A SLEIGH RIDE

MOZART NOW WORKS FOR TIPS

FESTIVE DECORATIONS EVERYWHERE

CAFE TOMASELLI

MOST SCENIC SETTING FOR A MARKET

CHRISTMAS DECOR

SWEETS OF ALL KIND

THOSE SLIPPERS COULD COME HANDY WHILE WE ARE IN AUSTRIA....

SCHNAPS KEEPS YOU WARM TOO

CATHEDRAL IN THE BACK

CRAZY CROWDS EVERYWHERE

THEY ALL LIKE HOT DOGS

GLISTENING DECOR

HANDMADE NATIVITY SCENES

MUSIC TO PUT YOU IN THE MOOD

ZOTTER SCHOKOLADE. MY FAVORITE STAND AT THE MARKET

MAKE YOUR OWN CHRISTMAS CAKE

A LOT OF PEOPLE WERE KISSING AT THAT STAND

THEY PUT A PRICE ON JESUS???

FUNKY CUPCAKES

CHRISTMAS ROAD TRIP

2011-12-15T05:45:00.002-07:00

Long before we planned to head to France, I was planning Christmas 2011 at my parents in Austria.

So, instead of flying in from Canada, we are going to drive from France to Hinterstoder. The GPS tells me it's 1543km, or about 950 Miles. A hop and a jump really.

Lauren is flying in from Toronto and then is driving back with us to France. It will be a great holiday for all of us and my parents.

Oma has organized a horse drawn sleigh ride on Christmas Eve and if I can stay awake, the plan is to take Isabella to a midnight mass at the little village church.

It would be a first for Isabella and the rest of my girls.

There is a Hurricane warning in effect for this area until tomorrow morning, 6am. Hopefully nothing major happens and we can get out of here on time. I plan to drive until about Baden Baden or Stuttgart on Friday and then leisurely head into the Alps on Saturday. Be there by supper time and have some good Austrian food.

MERRY CHRISTMAS EVERYONE

1500 CLICKS TO HINTERSTODER

HINTERSTODER. YOUR TYPICAL ALPINE VILLAGE

CLOSE TO MY PARENTS' HOUSE

WHERE WE WILL GO FOR MIDNIGHT MASS ON CHRISTMAS

AT THE TRUFFLE MARKET

2011-12-13T09:44:00.000-07:00

Jarnac. 10 minutes from Cognac,Courvoisier, the fourth largest Cognacproducer has their head office in this town. A lively little place on the riverCharente.

And in season, twice weekly until the end of February, there is a fine marketfor Truffles. We saw the advertising for it on our last visit and I wanted tocheck it out, see what the fuss about this "tuber melanosporum" isall about. The tourist office told us that the market, depending on attendanceand quantity available, can be over in mere 45 minutes. Sounds like a salesgimmick to get you there? Not so. Todays market was over in 60 minutes.

There was a certainexcitement in the air, people are being made line up outside an old palais andat sharp 9.30 the rush begins. By the time I was able to get some images shot,one guy already cleaned out a vendor and paid cash for his truffles. A lot ofcash. A Chef maybe, or a broker? No idea.

Prices for Truffles changeweekly, today they ranged from 350.00 Euros/kg, all the way to 900.00/kg. Thedifference I was told is not in taste, but in size and appearance. Hard tounderstand, they are all ugly to the eye, some are rounder maybe? Or my Frenchis not as good.

Anyway, Victoria keptegging me on to buy one, but somewhere in my blood line is some Scottish B

influence mixed in. I foundthe smallest one left in the whole market and let the vendor claw 14.00 Eurosout of my hands. Took him a while, buyer's remorse kicked in instantly.

We grated some on scrambledeggs, laid by free range hens, which are massaged by hand daily. And groomedtoo. Gotta have the right eggs for that kind of expense.

If only that lazy dog ofours could pick up that trade and make me happy......

Post script:

I have to say that the truffle shavings on my scrambled eggs did elevate the dish for sure.

The earthiness,musky smell of them made for a very good experience.
I never had truffles fresh before and learnt that most truffle oils are infused with artificial flavours instead of the real deal.
Will I rush back for buckets of them? No. Will I try to find a way to get a deal on Truffles? Yes.

It may be interesting to use them in a variety of dishes, but really, the cost is somewhat prohibitive.

PASS THE COURVOISIER

TWICE A WEEK

RIGHT NEXT TO HINE COGNAC

SMALLER THAN EXPECTED

IT ONLY TOOK 60 MINUTES TO SELL OUT

HE BOUGHT THE MOST THAT I COULD SEE

DIFFERENT QUALITIES

OUR BOUNTY,LARGE ENOUGH FOR SCRAMBLED EGGS AND SOME TRUFFLE SALT

I COULD HAVE BOUGHT 84 FREE RANGE EGGS INSTEAD

LACK OF EQUIPMENT MADE ME SHAVE IT VERY VERY SMALL

WITH A SIDE OF GLUTEN FREE TOAST

HMMMM. OLD DOG, NEW TRICK?

LAZY DOG. TIME TO GET TO WORK.

EMBER ROASTED POTATOS

2011-12-05T12:07:00.001-07:00

As I mentioned here before, our primary source of heating this place is a wood fired cast iron oven. Heats well and radiates hours later. Victoria is the more practical adult in the house, but I get up first.

So, once I understood how to operate that beast without smoking up the whole barn (Victoria got tired of waking up with a coughing fit), it's my favorite thing to do when the weather asks for a fire. Such was the case this weekend with the rain.

While I was admiring my primal instincts of providing warmth for the family, another thought started to creep in. Caveman needs to feed family. What if that oven would become a source not only for heat, but for cooked food as well? Not wanting to waste a nice piece of beef on my first attempt, I started the experiment with the lowly potato.

Amazing. You can take me camping now, this suburban male is now able to provide heat and food in the wild.

All it took was maybe 10 minutes of roasting those Pommes de Terre alongside the glowing embers. The garlic gave them a nice flavor and they were gone before the beef went into the oven.

I am on to something.

OLIVE OIL, SALT & PEPPER, WRAPPED IN ALUMINUM

HOT IN THERE

IN GOES THE POCKET OF POTATOS

10 MINUTES. DONE AND DELICIOUS

ÎLE DE RE

2011-12-03T22:35:00.001-07:00

Winter on the Atlantic coast. Not always sunny. This trip to the island just over a 3km Bridge from La Rochelle, was, due to the windy weather, not very memorable.

The island is a summer play ground, when the population increases ten fold compared to the winter.

We walked around the Marina in St. Martin, before finding one of only two places to eat, a locals bar, in hindsight the not so good choice. A Bistro in the marina seemed much more promising, but this guy does not wait in line for a table. Never. Sometimes though, I should reconsider that rule, there was a reason why this place was packed, while my choice was very empty.....even the waiter did not want to be there. Anyway.

A cyclist's paradise, the whole island is flat, even I could manage a bike ride around for a while.

The place is full of character, I can see why houses are quite a bit more than on the mainland.

So much more to see, so much more to do, we will come back in the spring, before the tourist onslaught, as besides not wanting to wait for a table, I also can't stand traffic....

WIKIPEDIA:

The area is a popular tourist destination. It has approximately the same number of hours of sunshine as the famous southern coast of France^{[citation needed]}. The island is noted to have a constant light breeze, and the water temperature is generally cool. The island is surrounded with gently sloping, sandy beaches, which are a real treat for families and tourists.

The island has a resident winter population of approximately 20,000 residents and a resident summer population of about 220,000. Since the local population is distributed all over the island, it seldom gets crowded.^{[citation needed]} The island is covered by bicycle tracks, with many residents rarely using cars for transportation. Camping grounds and hotels abound on the island, as well as large supermarkets and all modern amenities. Many families stay on the island for the duration of their vacations.

Night life consists of going to Saint Martin, the main port, or to La Flotte, to walk along the quays and to potter around the shops, which are open late. Restaurants abound.^{[citation needed]} At night, visitors can watch the buskers, have a drink or enjoy the island's delicious artisanal ice cream, all set in a family-friendly atmosphere.^{[citation needed]}

Sea salt harvest in Ile de Ré.

As a famous holiday resort on the Atlantic coast, the island has its fair share of celebrities, past and present. Among others, Jean Monnet, the father of European Unity, singers Charles Aznavour and Claude Nougaro, actors Bernard Giraudeau and Claude Rich, actress Carole Bouquet, writer Philippe Sollers or Princess Caroline of Monaco used to or still spend their holidays there. Lionel Jospin, who was Prime Minister of France from 1997 to 2002, retired on the island after his withdrawal from political life. Johnny Depp has also been spotted there.

Oysters and fresh fish are always available. There is also a tradition in which the fishermen, upon returning from the sea, sell a small quantity of their catch directly on the quays, enabling them to buy a drink. Markets are open on a daily basis in the main towns and are a popular place to shop, taste and chat. Even the vendors in the markets come to the island on their holidays. Generally, they work only in the mornings, enabling them to enjoy the remainder of the day. A large variety of items can be bought at the market, such as comics, books, African articles, ceramics, clothes, artifacts, food, local specialities, tools and souvenirs.

A MURAL OF THE ISLAND

JUST OVER THE BRIDGE FROM LA ROCHELLE

THOUGH WINDY, STILL 14 CELSIUS....

GREAT WAY TO DISCOVER THE ISLAND

A BIT FASTER THAN A BIKE, BUT STILL RELAXED

MARINA IN ST. MARTIN

OLD CINEMA

A BAKERY. OF COURSE

THAT'S WHAT I CALL A BOUTIQUE HOTEL. NOT A CONVERTED HOLIDAY INN

AT THE LOCALS BAR. JUST WINE NEXT TIME

AN OMELETTE

2011-12-02T08:06:00.001-07:00

As we went to look at yet another house (the most gorgeous one so far), we were as usual early (the German in me) and maybe two doors down in that village is a working farm with a big sign outside offering free range chickens. The sign did not mention eggs, but if there are chickens.....

In France, even Farmers stop for lunch and we rang the door bell at noon it seems. Nevertheless they came to the door and we asked to buy some eggs, they invited us into their home, the kitchen, while junior Farmer fetched a dozen eggs. Two doors down only from a mansion, this one looked decidedly different let me tell you....

Their main business is selling roasted chickens at area markets and of course in the summer, the tourists stop by and buy their eggs.

They never have more than 300 of them at any time, many less in the winter it seemed. I saw a hand full running around, eating their lunch.

A couple hours later back at our farm, I made a quick Omelette with bacon, I have to tell you, fresh farm eggs of good quality are hard to beat.

DOES IT GET ANY FRESHER?

I DID NOT WANT TO TAKE ANY PICTURES INSIDE THE FARMHOUSE

THE BOSS

THE GIRLS

WITH A SIDE OF APPLE JUICE

BROWN THE BACON, ADD SOME BUTTER, YES, MORE FAT!

ADD THE EGGS AND FORM AN OMELETTE

NOT A PERFECT ONE, BUT VERY TASTY

ROCHEFORT SUR MER

2011-11-30T07:24:00.001-07:00

In the 1700's one of the most important military ports in all of Europe, this great city (almost) by the sea is nowadays the unappreciated sister to la Rochelle and even less frequented than Royan to it's south.
I am not sure why that is, but it seems that even it's citizens look with an envious eye to the city in the north. A bigger port, more tourists?

Personally we really like this town. It has an almost miniature Paris feeling to it, with it's main square, pedestrian friendly streets and wide open parks on the outskirts. Along the river Charente are some incredibly impressive buildings and fortifications. Including a giant glass hangar in which The Hermione, a replica of the famous ship that took the Marquis de La Fayette to America in 1780 to fight in the War of Independence against the British, is being built, mostly by volunteers.

Here are some images we took today. The main square is being turned into a christmas wonder land including a giant ice skating rink. Funny to see Palm trees covered up with a Pine forest.

GREAT ARCHITECTURE

CHRISTMAS WITH PALM AND PINE TREES

GIANT ICE SKATING RINK IN THE TOWN SQUARE

MONUMENTS

NAVETTE

PEDESTRIAN ZONES

A MASTER BUTCHER (MAITRE BOUCHER)

POST OFFICE. FULL OF UNDER WORKED CIVIL SERVANTS

A FEEL GOOD TOWN

PATIO SEATING (END OF NOVEMBER)

THIRD FLOOR BALCONY

ARSENAL, PART OF THE NAVY SHIP YARD

LEISURE BOATS

NOT SO MUCH A LEISURE BOAT

CREPES AND FRENCH FRIES

GF BUCKWHEAT WITH NUTELLA

TIME FOR LUNCH

A GOOD DEAL

A VERY GOOD DEAL

FLEURS

DOG AT THE BUTCHER (CAME OUT ALIVE, NO WORRIES)

CHATEAU DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULD

2011-11-26T23:21:00.001-07:00

On the way to yet another property we looked at east of Angouleme, we had to drive by Rochefoucauld, a quaint small town with a towering chateau above it all. Since we were early, we decided to take a tour and to be honest, not only was it worth it, it was for all of us, our first french Chateau to visit. An impressive one at that.

Below an article I copied from a website that describes the Chateau much better than I could, an interesting fact is that by reservation you can book a room at a B&B inside the Chateau.The Rochefoucauld family lives in one large wing of the place, while the other wing is open for tours.

Personally I was very impressed by the condition of the place and of course the flooring and antiques on display. No flash photography, so some images are abit shady, but once the tour guide left us, .........it got a bit better.

Towering above the town of La Rochefoucauld by the River Rardoire in the Charente, the Château de la Rochefoucauld is an impressive castle, with its original 11th century square keep flanked by Renaissance towers.

It is still the residence of the La Rochefoucauld family, one of the oldest noble families in France, and has been in almost continuous ownership since it was first built (during the Revolution, some members of the family were killed, while others fled to the United States).

Parts of the château are open to the public - there is no garden - and highlights include the beautiful 16th century staircase, highly ornate Renaissance detailing in the ceiling and windows, and the courtyard with its Italianate archways.

These as well as the kitchen, the dungeon and guard rooms can be seen without the need to take the guided tour.
However, to see the salons, including a small room with painted wooden panelled walls and ceiling and the libraries with their antique maps and prints, you have to take the tour which is included in the ticket price. The tours occur at regular intervals and English is spoken.

The title of Duke de La Rochefoucauld was a French peerage, one of most famous families of French nobility, whose origins go back to lord Rochefoucauld in Charente (department) of the 10th Century - 11th Century (with official evidence of nobility in 1019). It became Rochefoucauld in the 13th Century..

IMPRESSIVE SET UP

AS SEEN FROM THE VILLAGE BELOW

THE PRIVATE WING, WHERE SOME FAMILY MEMBERS LIVE TO THIS DAY

OPEN TO THE PUBLIC

DRAWING ROOM

THE FAMILY PORTRAITS OF RECENT TIMES

FAMILY ARCHIVES, DATING BACK, WAY BACK. SORT OF AN EARLY BLOG

A MUST HAVE FOR ME

WHERE THE BLOGGER WROTE HIS POSTS

MASSIVE STAIR CASE

THIS ROOM IS CALLED THE BIRD ROOM

FAMILY TREE

ANOTHER SALON, LOVE THE WALL PANELS

MEASURING THE FLOOR FOR ACCURACY??

1 METER BY 1 METER.

WOULD IT LOOK THAT GOOD IN A HOUSE?

CHINOISERIE

VENETIAN MIRROR

PORTRAIT

MUSIC ROOM

SAINT SAVINIEN

2011-11-24T11:10:00.001-07:00

A lead

A lead for an interesting, Quay side property got us to visit this river town in the Charente Maritime today. The townhouse, all 3300 sqft of it, was absolutely gorgeous and the views alone were worth the asking price.

No matter how we sliced it, we just could not find a negative on it at all. The top two floors would be perfect rentals in the middle of town, with a great 800 sqft Patio for guest to relax and watch the river traffic (house boats all summer long) go by, while they eat some good, gluten free food.

The town itself, home to about 3000 people, is I think, the most beautiful town we have visited so far. Set in the middle of town, on top of a hill is an abbey, which dates back to the 1400's. Bakeries, butchers, all sorts of small business shops, all the important things when choosing a location to live. And have guest staying without being bored to bits.

Another incredible place we found in town is this organic set up of a fruit and vegetable garden. Though it was closed today, my hanging around the gate taking pictures, upset the dog into a barking fit until the owner came out to see about the noise.

He was in the middle of some important work, but still spent enough time with us, including making us taste his two year barrel aged vinegars.

His passion for creating a garden of this kind was all apparent, including his ways of observing the sun, moon and earth for perfect times to harvest each vegetable and fruit that he grows with his wife Christine.

he told me that he even takes the time to talk to the grapes before harvest.

I almost cracked a joke about that, but I could see that he was serious.

Lunch at a small Resto, nothing too much to tell, other than that buffet of sweets that was included in my lunch. All home made, the chocolate mousse was very good.

Now. How do we land this property within our means??

RIGHT ON THE RIVER CHARENTE

THE ABBEY

GREAT VIEWS FROM ALL ANGELS

UP RIVER VIEW

OLD ADVERTISING

MARKET HALL

ANOTHER CHURCH

THE NICEST HOUSE WE'VE SEEN SO FAR

TIME FOR LUNCH

DESSERT BUFFET? I AM IN!

GOOD ENOUGH FOR THE PRICE

AN AMAZING SET UP

ALL ORGANIC, FRESH, ALL YEAR

SMALL BATCH VINEGAR, ORGANIC AND EXCELLENT

KNEADED BAKE SHOP

2011-11-21T01:01:00.001-07:00

OK. It's official now. Kneaded, a gluten free bake shop and Espresso bar will open very soon (early 2012) in Regina, Sask.

Sarah Clemens, a Celiac herself, saw not only GF PATISSERIE'S quality baked goods in demand in Calgary, but much more so the need to offer that same quality in Saskatchewan. After all it is a long trip, even if one loaded up a trunk full of baked goods (as some Celiacs did from Regina and Saskatoon). Others, the smart ones, just called their relatives before they made any trip from west to East, after all, half of Calgary's population hails from Saskatchewan.

Now, with Victoria's help, there will be a local, gluten free bake shop opening soon. What I like the most personally, is that Sarah is adding an Espresso Bar I tried to talk Victoria into for two years.

Yes, not only do you get your load of gluten free cakes and breads and buns and Pizza Crusts, you can just stop in for a gluten free treat & coffee, which gives you that instant gratification you deserve. Oh boy, if it would not be for the weather, I would accompany Victoria on her trip to that city, but someone has to hold the Farm here.

Website is up, address, phone, etc will follow soon here and on Facebook. Stay tuned.

http://kneadedbakeshop.com/

WITH ESPRESSO BAR!!

SARAH WITH HUSBAND BRAD IN MY FAVORITE CITY

GLUTEN FREE MADELEINES

2011-11-20T10:01:00.001-07:00

Not that Victoria's bakery in Cochrane was very large compared to other gluten free bakeries who boast walk in sized equipment, but here in our cozy little house in France, she is battling with an oven that is the normal size in a normal house in Europe. My mother's in Austria isn't any larger...

Which then can make it a challenge (to say the least) to bake some glorious gluten free breads, buns, etc.

Apparently Madame Anderberg-Edlinger loves a challenge, because since we landed, she is baking away. Smaller quantities, more frequent, but so far no complaints from the peanut gallery. The buns turn out excellent, which is vital for Isabella and her mother.

This weekend, it was time to make that french sponge cake based cookie, Madeleines. Or is it a cake. For me, one bite, it's gone, so I declare it a cookie. If I'd need a fork, it's a cake.

I already mentioned the KitchenAid mixer we had to buy, nothing else will do for Madame, plus all the basic tools and flour mix we shipped from Calgary ( The largest cupboard is full of her equipment), so in all honesty, the baking is OK. Minus the oven situation for volume of course.

The madeleines turned out very good, not a surprise really. That flour mix of hers is amazing. So. Once we find a big sized oven, I hope more cookies. Many more. And cakes. And brioche. Life is good with sugar.

THE QUINTESSENTIAL FRENCH COOKIE

LOADS OF GOOD FRENCH BUTTER

EGGS FROM BROWN CHICKENS?

GF PATISSERIE FLOUR MIX AND SUGAR

INVENTIVE WAY TO CLARIFY THE BUTTER

VICTORIA BOUGHT THESE PANs IN ORLEANS

SHE DID NOT WANT A KENWOOD OR KRUPS, IT HAD TO BE KITCHENAID

A SIZE CHALLENGED OVEN MAKES IT INTERESTING FOR VICTORIA

THIS 4' BOX WAS MOSTLY FULL WITH VICTORIA'S BAKING ESSENTIALS....

DUCK FAT ROASTED BRUSSEL SPROUTS.

2011-11-20T06:31:00.000-07:00

Chances are, more readers do not like Brussel Sprouts, than those who do. That's because most of the ones made do not taste all that good. For one reason or the other.

Well, let me tell you, we all get stuck in our ways some times and if you are willing to try this dish, you actually will enjoy them from here on in.

All you do is pre heat the oven to 400F, or about 200C. Melt a nice amount of that (not unhealthy) flavorful duck fat, some salt, roll them around the pan and roast them for about 45 minutes or until they are nice and crispy looking.

Turn them over once in a while, so all sides get a nice color and flavor. Your kids will not even know they are eating Brussel Sprouts. No gagging, I promise.

THEY MAKE A NICE SIDE DISH

CLEAN THEM UP A BIT

MELT SOME OF THIS AND ROAST THEM FOR 45 MIN OR NICE BROWN

GOOD SALT, TRY TO FIND SOME

UNE BELLE MAISON

2011-11-18T11:13:00.000-07:00

Shabby Chic, minimalistic, austere, country basics, name it what you'd like, it was one of the more interesting homes we have seen so far. A holiday home for a British couple who decided to sell up. They did some renovations, but left more to do, cosmetics mostly. Nothing that would not cost an arm and a leg.

A 45m2 Gite (holiday rental) would generate some income, but all in all, I did not see too much of an upside to increase space for more revenue.

Located about 30 minutes inland from Royan, a nice resort town on the Atlantic coast.

We will keep looking and hopefully by Christmas we found a home, that fills most of our needs and some of our wants. Pool for me and Isabella and space for a great kitchen for Victoria.

LE HAMEAU DU VILLENOUVELLE

2011-11-16T10:43:00.000-07:00

The name of the hamlet where we are for the winter. Villenouvelle. Located between Villeneuve La Comtesse and Dompierre sur Boutonne. Around 30 structures or so, a mixture of renovated homes, farms and ruins. Very rural, very quiet.
The Gite is I believe the only commercial place in the hamlet. We take the dog for a daily walk now, unlike in Calgary, where I just kicked her out the back door.
So today I took some images, random as always. A lot of the residents have great looking vegetable gardens, some have animals as well. Some houses are renovated, or under renovation, from what I understand a good third of the houses belong to expat Brits. A small, but interesting place.

MAIN ROAD. ALSO THE ONLY ROAD.

AS YOU ARRIVE FROM VILLENEUVE

JUDGING BY THE FIREWOOD, SOMEONE LIVES HERE FOR THE WINTER

MAYBE IT WAS A TOBACCO STORE LONG TIME AGO?

WHERE WE RENT A GITE

GEESE. I GIVE THEM 3 WEEKS OR SO BEFORE THEY BE DINNER

A HOLIDAY COTTAGE, ALL SHUTTERED UP

MY FAVORITE HOUSE, BEING RENOVATED

THE HAMLET'S CHURCH.

WHAT HAPPENED TO THE WINDOW?

RECYCLING THE TUB

LOADS OF CHICKENS IN THE HAMLET

IT'S GOING TO BE A NICE CHRISTMAS...

MID NOVEMBER. FRESH SALAD AND FLOWERS......

LA ROCHELLE

2011-11-15T09:22:00.000-07:00

All the important stuff about this great city on France's Atlantic coast is written here:

http://fr.wikipedia.org/wiki/La_Rochelle

Located about 45 minutes west from where we live and a fantastic place to visit. Especially if the weather in November is around 20 degrees (Celsius,not Fahrenheit). Gotta love it.

A madhouse in the summer, when tourists double the amount of citizens flock to the area and enjoy their 8 weeks paid vacation in the resorts around town. A bit more laid back during the off season, we had a great walk about town today. The Cafes were packed with people, the old town was busy with window shoppers, most stores were closed for Rememberence Day.

Isabella got hungry, all we could find that was open and gluten free.....chinese food. But let me tell you, it's not Peking Garden quality. You pick your choices, they nuke it for you. Anyway. Isabella got fed.

The Occupy movement has even reached this town, heck, what else do they want here? It's a worker's paradise compared to the US. Oh well, protesting for protesting sake. Good for you. For sure the deodorant business is taking a hit, let me tell you.

OLD PORT OF LA ROCHELLE

CLOCK TOWER

SETTING UP A STREET MARKET

OLD TOWN HOUSE

FRENCH LIFE. AT THE CAFE

THERE IS ALWAYS PLENTY OF TIME FOR COFFEE

CAN'T BEAT THE LOCATION

YOU TELL ME. I FIND IT REASONABLY PRICED

CHINESE TAKE OUT

WHAT'S GLUTEN FREE? THE RICE......

WORLD'S MOST BORING FRIED RICE

I EAT HERE

ALWAYS IN SEASON!

BURNT SOMETHING. A SPECIALTY HERE.

THE PRICES....

PLEASE.

AT THE ANTIQUE SHOW

2011-11-13T04:25:00.000-07:00

My first antique show in France. For sure not my last. Held at the Exposition center in La Rochelle, the fair was a step up from last week's Brocante we went to in Loulay.

I always had an interest, a passion almost, for fine furniture and decor. Sometimes I contemplate stepping back into it, buying and selling, so this fair gave me a good idea what the market is like over here.

Prices are higher, but then so is the quality of objects shown. We only hung around for a couple of hours, I watched a few transactions, but am not sure how much will be sold this weekend.

The variety of goods available is much better of course in Europe, since there is some age to the continent. Less Bric a Brac, more true antiques. I wonder if the looming recession with the Euro turmoil might present a good entry point into the industry? Time will tell.

SALON DE LA GASTRONOMIE

2011-11-11T10:14:00.002-07:00

Think travelling farmers' market. Where smaller producers show their goods and sell to consumers direct. Anything french. Or former colonies. Or neighbors.

We went to the one in La Rochelle, which had maybe around 100 exhibitors from Fleur du Sel to wines and Champagnes, Cognacs, cheeses, meats, Foie Gras and Chocolates.

The variety of locally produced food is staggering.

The bad news was that too many of the vendors had no idea if their was gluten in their products or not. Most hedged their bets with simply stating "Peut d'etre", (maybe), Wow. Do I see a market. Even the Nougat producer was unsure if his starch is from corn or wheat. GF Bread? Forget about it.

The only dedicated GF sign we saw was at a booth selling macarons, which unfortunately is an obvious. Plus these ones were a tad industrial....they used sirup for flavoring...

On the positive, it is great to see the pride of the individual farmers, bakers or producers who sell their own products.

A lady from Vendee makes nothing but Brioche and travels from Market to market. I tell you, it was excellent Brioche. Not GF, but excellent. She did mention that demand is there, she just does not have the time to make it, plus it is tricky. Victoria will fix that I think.

My favorite booth was a husband wife team from the Lourdes area, they travelled the world before returning back home and getting into the small farming business. Right now they have duck and pork related products, Confits, Foie Gras, Cassoulets and so on. Their twist is that not only it's all made in small, small batches (40 ducks at a time), but they also use some unusual ingredients. For example a Cinammon flavored Foie Gras. I bought a jar of a more subtle one, excellent quality.

They only sell to end users via mail order and markets, but their website is not yet ready. Ah, they are in Lourdes, a miracle may just fix that....

www.haginat.com

Overall, a great venue if one wants to get a taste of so many different products at one time. For me, it makes me want to traverse this country now and visit some of those farms and bakers and cheese makers.

Anyone have contacts at HGTV? That would be a perfect TV show....

CHEESE. A BIT MOLDY MAYBE

WILD MUSHROOMS & OMELETTES ON THE SPOT

PRUNES FROM AGEN. NOT JUST FOR SENIORS

SPICES

BRIOCHE. NOTHING BUT BRIOCHES. EXCELLENT STUFF

NOUGAT

SUGAR ROASTED HAZEL NUTS

PAYS BASQUE SAUSAGES AND HAMS

THE FRENCH LOVE THEIR CHAMPAGNE. BUSY BOOTH

COGNAC

VANILLA. $1.00/STICK

BLOOD SAUSAGES

THIS LOCAL BUTCHER SERVED READY TO EAT FOOD AND WAS BUSY

MY FAVE BOOTH OF THE SALON. SMALL PRODUCER OF FOIE GRAS

COOK WARES

DOGS ARE WELCOME.....

CHOCOLATES

THE ONLY BOOTH WITH SANS GLUTEN SIGN....

FRESH FISH

2011-11-08T06:16:00.000-07:00

Intermarche. Think Superstore or similar. On today's visit, while Victoria was looking for something, I went ahead to check out the fish display, which in St. Jean is manned by a vendor who seems to know his fish.

Had a listen to his conversation with a couple of customers, not only did he tell them where the fish came from, but also gave his personal opinion how to prepare them. Impressive if you ask me.

I saw some Sardine filets and in my heavy accented french asked him how to cook them. Off he went on a spiel that was hard to follow in detail, but the rough cut sounded like, it's easy, some butter not too long, a minute maybe, not longer or I kill the fish, etc etc. Oy.

D'Accord. Pour deux personnes s'il vous plait.

It's not that hard if you just make some effort to speak a language, they actually smile and are friendly. Victoria pointed that out to me yesterday that so far everybody was so friendly where ever we went...

So. This post is for Bruno, who, after a summer of leisure in Europe, made his way back to Calgary a week before we left. he told me all about the fish and to eat as much as I can. I am starting Bruno, I am starting.

FRESH SARDINES

PERFECT FOR AN APPETIZER

MELT SOME BUTTER

MAYBE A MINUTE EACH SIDE ON MED HIGH

SOME LEMON JUICE & SALT

CHOPPED PARSLEY, AND ENJOY!

HOUSE HUNTERS INTERNATIONAL

2011-11-07T11:55:00.000-07:00

While we love this show on HGTV as much as the next family, let me tell you, reality looks starkly different. Come to think of it, reality is much more exciting. On that 22 minute show all you get to see are 3 choices. Nobody in their sane mind goes abroad and chooses one of three. It's made for TV I gather.

So far, without a realtor, only with a dependable GPS and contacts made via email, we got to look at a handful of houses in this area already. Just to get a feel for it.

What are we getting into, how are prices set, etc. In the end we will engage a property finder, or a realtor to avoid any real pit falls ahead. Until then however, we do feel more akin to Real Estate Tourists than actual buyers. Once the right property falls into our way, I am sure that attitude will change, but until then we won't waste anyone's valuable time. With the exception of the home owners of course. Or in some cases, their friends who still live close to the properties, while the owner has spent the inheritance already and moved to Paris....

With the exception of one ready to move into house, we only looked at reno projects, as this is what Victoria has in mind. Prior to baking gluten free for a buck, she actually played in that market. So it only makes sense to create our own vision of a place, rather than buying someone else's dream, no?

But let me tell you, compared to that TV Show, we've seen some major interesting details so far. An original bread oven which would make for so much better dialogue than " Oh I love this lamp shade`......that bread oven actually comes with the house, the lamps don`t.....

Stay tunes, this topic will go on for a while, more pictures to show you, more stories to tell.

THIS SHOW MAKES IT LOOK SO EASY

WHILE REALITY IS DIFFERENT....VERY DIFFERENT

PLENTY OF SPACE TO RENOVATE

APPROX 240M2

PLENTY OF LAND WITH IT

A MAISON DE MAITRE

FUNKY WALL PAPER

ORIGINAL BREAD OVEN

HALF BATH?

MARKET DAY IN SAINT JEAN D'ANGELY

2011-11-05T07:07:00.000-06:00

St. Jean d'Angely, with a population of ca. 8000 people, is the closest town to our hamlet where you will find a weekly market. Held Wednesdays and Saturdays, we got to check it out today.

A market to me is not only what it has to offer, but the setting as well. This one is located in the city centre, part indoors, part market square. A busy market square, lined with shops, Cafes and offices.Which certainly adds to the whole atmosphere.

While you find some clothing vendors, it's safe to say that 95% on offer is food. And besides the chicken rotisserie we did not see any prepared food vendors, which is the biggest difference to me, compared to your average North American Farmers' market venue. People come to buy food for cooking it seems. Not to eat. Socializing happens while standing around, not eating Waffles or Hamburgers. or in a Cafe after all are done shopping.

A wide range of products are available at this market, what surprised me the most was how busy the place was. Especially the butchers and fish mongers had line ups all morning. There was only one baker on site, maybe because there are five Boulangeries within 3 minutes of that market?

We bought some basics for weekend cooking, but my best score must be the Anchovies. Pickled, not salted, I used to buy them at Lina's in Calgary.

Though I set myself a goal of not comparing prices of anything on this Blog, as the grass is NOT greener on the other side, I have to say it. These Anchovies were about 75% less here than what I paid for them in Calgary. And that's amazing.

THE SQUARE OUTSIDE

IT'S A BUSY PLACE

THE ROTISSERIE

THE HALL

THE ATLANTIC IS ONLY 50KM AWAY, FRESH FISH

SMALL DELI BOOTH

IT'S A BUSY PLACE

PATES, RILLETES AND MOUSSE

SEE THE TONGUE?

FOOD THAT HAS WINGS

OYSTERS. FRANCE IS THE LARGEST PRODUCER IN EUROPE

MAIS OUI, LES MACARONS

VEGETABLES AND FRUITS

ANCHOVIES. PICKLED

LE DUCK

2011-11-03T10:31:00.000-06:00

So. Here we are. Well arrived, shaken off jet lag and ready to explore the Charente Maritime. If you look at the map of France, search for La Rochelle, go east a bit and you will find where we are situated for the time being.

Our Gite (basically a furnished holiday apartment), is quaint, set inside a complex with two more Gites and the owner's house. They were a huge help to get us settled in quickly, especially with a reliable WiFi connection, so Isabella can go to school right away. We met the other tenants on Halloween evening, it's going to be a great winter here.

Today was our first big shopping trip, besides the basics such as milk, coffee and chocolates.

St. Jean d'Angely has a couple of Superstore" type grocery stores and we went to LeClerc, only because it was the first one I found driving around.

It must be Duck season here. Right at the entrance was a massive display of anything Duck. Whole, parts, fat, liver, you name it, it was on display. Interesting enough. Let's buy some and cook it.

I went with the easy one, duck breast. Really easy to make, it turned out very nice and tender. Crispy skin too.

We roasted some potatoes in that rendered fat, with some Mache salad, which to my excitement is pretty common here. A surprisingly good red wine ( my knowledge is less than superficial) with the meal, it made us all want to speak French beyond Oh La la, C'est bon.....

On the way to town, we stopped outside a house that has a For Sale sign on the fence and by pure coincidence, the owner saw us walking around the property and let us in. An amazing place, all empty, grand staircase and all.

But more on that later.....

ANYTHING DUCK SPECIAL

MY CHOICE OF CUT FOR DINNER

RENDERED DUCK FAT. EXCELLENT

CHECK IT OUT

CUT THE SKIN TO DRAIN FAT AND MAKE IT CRISPY

EH VOILA, MAGNIFIQUE

SERVE WITH SOME ROASTED POTATOES, MACHE SALAD AND RED WINE...

THIS BLOG MAY DISAPPEAR

2011-10-27T18:03:00.000-06:00

Well, or buried so far deep down in the bowels of the world wide web, that nobody can find it. These exact threats were uttered over the phone today, by a representative of Alan Davis. Not sure if you all remember this story,

http://theceliachusband.blogspot.com/2010/01/alan-davis-gf-patisserie-imposter.html

but apparently it has hit a nerve with someone. This representative of Mr. Davis initially emailed GF PATISSERIE with this intro:

"I work for a prominent reputation management company with many resources available to effectively deal with this situation. I will not divulge my companies name or contact info as it would run a risk of further posts being created about this matter with us involved. But you can reply to this e-mail and request a phone call. "

Victoria did not even reply, and just forwarded that long winded email to The Celiac Husband. Me. Of course I requested a phone call and Mr. Representative turns out to be a search engine optimization specialist/webmaster/ hired gun, not an image consultant.

In a dime store lawyer's legalese language Mr. Representative asked me to remove above slanderous posts, or else. "Or else what?" I asked.

At which point it got a bit confusing. Not only will my Blog be taken down by Blogger.com, where Mr. Representative is also a representative (he once worked for Google....), but GF PATISSERIE'S reputation will severely be damaged by his actions online and in person. Talking of slanderous. Outch.

Anyway. Here is what it boils down to. Mr. Davis' webmaster "The Representative" has promised in very clear terms to take down this Blog with all his resources, as it damages his client's business. Uhm, didn't Mr. Davis do this to himself?

You be the judge.

GLUTEN FREE AT BLUE STAR DINER

2011-10-13T14:00:00.001-06:00

Big Star, Blue Star, All Stars. Don't get confused.

As of this week, Big Star Bake House is supplying gluten free Hamburger buns to Blue Star Diner in Bridgeland. An excellent reason for Victoria to go for lunch. With me.
Shayne Perrin of Dairy Lane fame was on location and it was actually the first time Victoria met with him, after having supplied gluten free baked goods for the past 2 years. Busy people, I am telling you....

We arrived at 11.25 and five minutes later the place was packed solid with the lunch crowd. I counted 44 seats, a perfect size really.
Your special requests will get the attention they deserve, the staff has time to not only talk to you about options and special requests, but also ensure that you are safe when the food arrives. Which, if you are Celiac, is comforting to know.

Victoria ordered a Burger on Blue Star Buns and for myself I got a Chicken Club. on a GF bun as well.
No need to review it, other than it is excellent. All of it. The meat, the fries and of course the buns from Big Star. Big portions!
You can read a better written review of the food on Vincci's Blog here:

http://www.cecinestpasunfoodblog.com/2011/10/blue-star-diner.html

Very similar to Dairy Lane, they proudly serve local ingredients and food from local suppliers where possible. large photographs of farmers and their products are on the walls. I fully expect a portrait of Rich and Liam on their wall soon. Or of the best gluten free Hamburger Buns at least....

IN BRIDGELAND

PLENTY OF GF OPTIONS.

GREAT LOOKING PLACE

THE BURGER ON BIG STAR BUNS. GREAT FRIES!

CHICKEN CLUB. EXCELLENT PESTO AIOLI

LOOK AT THOSE BUNS.....

BIG ENOUGH TO FEED ISABELLA AS WELL.

GLUTEN FREE BRIOCHE

2011-10-10T15:18:00.000-06:00

Victoria keeps telling me she is experimenting. Not sure if I can do this any longer. It's already great gluten free Brioche and I just ate half a loaf of something she wants to improve? Too much. I can't be her guinea pig any longer. Wait until you get it at a GFP licensed bakery near you. It's perfect.

Toasted with some jam, maybe the best breakfast for me. If you leave off the Sugar, the gluten free Brioche will be more savory and perfect with Foie Gras or any savory pâté of your choice

GLUTEN FREE BRIOCHE

FLAVORFUL FLUFFY INSIDE

TOASTS UP REALLY NICE

BUTTER IN CANADA, NOT SO GOOD.

FRENCH BRIOCHE FORMS

COARSE SUGAR. FROM AUSTRIA

BIG STAR BAKE HOUSE

2011-09-30T21:36:00.002-06:00

BIG STAR IS OPEN!!

OK. The wait is over. Saturday, October 1st at 10.30am Big Star is opening it's doors for the first time since Liam and Rich closed up GFP in Cochrane.

Here are some basics:

1510 -6th Street SW (behind Fiore's on 17th Ave)

Call them here (403) 452-6572

They twitter @bigstaryyc

Website coming soon.

Baking hard Tuesday to Saturday, 10.30am to 6pm

Anyway. We just went to say hello this evening after a nice dinner at a friend's house. The Butter tarts just came out of the oven and yes, they are identical to the ones at GFP in Cochrane.

This Saturday's special will be Quiche. Fresh.

The freezer is full of Hamburger Buns, plenty for all. Five breads tomorrow, as well as the usual basics. But no Pizza shells just yet. (Sorry Karen K.)

Liam and Rich have told us a few of their plans, lots of great ideas that will be put into place over the next few days. All 100% gluten free and safe to eat.

They have plenty of of commercial orders pending, they begin filling them next week already. As it happens, you will hear about it. UNA is back on board and some more exciting diners will carry hamburger Buns again, but won't say anything else until it happens.

Victoria is as happy as all of you, she knows that the two fabulous bakers will turn out the supreme gluten free product that you deserve. Rich is Celiac himself, he lives the life, so yes, rest assured. 100% excellence in gluten free baking. If not, call me. Na, just kidding. call Victoria.

HAND PAINTED SIGN

FROM THIS

TO THIS! IN TWO MONTH

YOUR FAVORITE GLUTEN FREE FLOUR MIX

PERFECT BUTTER TART. JUST THE WAY YOU LIKE IT

THE FREEZER IS FULL OF HAMBURGER BUNS

THESE SHELVES WILL BE FULL AT 10.30 FIVE DAYS/WEEK

BONUS! FREE PARKING RIGHT BEHIND THE BAKERY

GLUTEN FREE MERGUEZ SANDWICH

2011-09-24T15:52:00.003-06:00

Merguez sausages made from Lamb are a North African creation that with immigrants made it's way to France, Spain and of course North America. Harissa, a Chili based spice, gives the meat it's distinct flavour.Not as popular here as in France, where you find it on every menu, they are a spicy, smaller version of what we love in Calgary, Spolumbo's Italian Sausage. From lamb.

Roast them, bake them, or grill them, put them inside a gluten free bun, add your favorite condiments (mustard, roasted peppers for me) and it's a meal. A good one.

EAT WITH HOME MADE FRENCH FRIES

ADD SOME ROASTED RED PEPPERS

ADD THE LAMB SAUSAGES, TWO FOR MEN, ONE FOR GIRLS

VITAMINS. SAYS VICTORIA

DIJON MUSTARD

GLUTEN FREE GROUND FLAX HOAGIES (@ BIG STAR SOON)

GLUTEN FREE MERGUEZ SAUSAGES FROM SECOND TO NONE MEATS (4TH ST. SW)

ROASTED SWEET PEPPERS

BEAU MONDE IN THE NEWS (ALREADY!)

2011-09-15T16:07:00.001-06:00

Erin Ryan from Las Vegas Weekly, the GO TO publication for anything Vegas, wrote a review of Beau Monde Bakery. They are only open since August and already got more press than Victoria did with GFP in a year in Calgary. That's Las Vegas.

My favorite line: "Using battle-tested recipes from industry leader GF Patisserie"

Read the full review here:

http://www.lasvegasweekly.com/news/2011/sep/14/baking-gluten-free-world/

IF YOU VISIT VEGAS, THIS MAG IS A MUST. READ IT ONLINE.

TRISH WITH HER LEMON MERINGUE PIES

AS GOOD AS ANY CUPCAKES OUT THERE. IF NOT BETTER.....

GLUTEN FREE PIZZA WITH SARDINES

2011-09-09T17:37:00.002-06:00

Sardines. Think giant Anchovies. Salty, Fishy. Very tasty. Not for everybody. I bought a few Sardines at the Italian Store, when I stocked up with my favorite Tomato sauce.

Victoria made fresh gluten free Pizza dough, but did not want any sardines anywhere near her Pizza. More for me.

LEMON IS MORE FOR COLOR THAN ANYTHING ELSE.

HEADS & TAILS

CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE

CRISPY CRUST

GREAT STORE

GLUTEN FREE ARANCINI

2011-09-02T17:01:00.001-06:00

Originally served as street food in Sicily, these little rice balls are now available at most Italian Delis around the country. But none of them makes a gluten free version. I always buy one or two and finally decided to make them for Victoria and Isabella.

All you do is make a Risotto Milanese (just add some Saffron), let it cool for the night. Next day take a scoop of the COLD Risotto, flatten it, put a chunk of cheese inside, bread crumb them and deep fry until golden brown. Please note that any food that you deep fry, should be at room temps, for faster and more even cooking.

Yes, you could theoretically bake them in the oven and get the same results, but really, baking foods is for Sissies. Grease always adds flavor. Bake a cake but deep fry the rest.

In Italy you can choose from many versions, many of them add Ragu inside, which is Bolognese sauce. Cheese is fine though. On our last trip to the Italian Store, we found this great, flavorful Cherry Tomato sauce. Perfect with these gluten free Arancini.

Here are instructions for the Risotto, in case you forgot:

http://theceliachusband.blogspot.com/2011/01/gluten-free-risotto-so-easy-10-year-old.html

PREPARE A RISOTTO MILANESE, LET IT COOL

SAFFRON

MOZZARELLA CHEESE

MAKE NICE FIRM KUGELN

FLOUR, EGG, GF BREAD CRUMBS

THE FUN PART. DEEP FRYING WITHOUT SETTING THE HOUSE ON FIRE

SERVE WITH TOMATO SAUCE

BOUGHT AT THE ITALIAN STORE, EXCELLENT!

PERFECT LEFTOVERS, NUKE FOR 60 SECONDS, EAT!